Sep 15, 2021
What is an IPA? Most drinkers around the world would probably
identify IPA as the flagship style of the modern craft beer
movement. As its popularity has grown, it has become known for a
bunch of different—and often contradictory—characteristics. A
modern IPA is either bitter or not bitter; pale, white, or black;
very strong, sessionable, or nonalcoholic. But while IPA in all its
forms is loved around the world, relatively few drinkers would be
likely to name the drink’s intimate connection with the history of
colonial exploitation.
In this episode, I talk to David Jesudason, the author of a recent
article, “Empire State of Mind — Interrogating IPA’s Colonial
Identity,” that ran in our Critical Drinking series. In this
conversation, we discuss David’s article and his take on the
history of IPA, or India Pale Ale, to use its full name. We talk
about mercantilism, extractive capitalism, and the East India
Company, a massive corporation which maintained its own private
army to protect its lucrative businesses during the British
occupation of India. We talk about beer advertising and beer
labels, and we discuss the prevalence of colonial-themed décor in
modern British culture, including plantation shutters, and what
seems like a widespread nostalgia for colonies and empire
there.